Wednesday, July 21, 2010

FORT NARAYANGAD

On Pune Nashik highway, lies small town called Narayangaon. It is the principal town near the border of Pune-Nashik district and approx 76 km from Pune. Approx 5-6 km on the east of Narayangaon stands Narayangad.
Natural defence (gigantic cliffs) was the chief strength of this fort and hence its artificial fortification was never strong. This fort was built by the first Peshwa Balaji Vishwanath (1714-1720) and was given in service grant to Sayaji Pawar.It was surrendered to English army in 1820 when only one shell reached inside of the fort. In 1827 Captain Clunes has mentioned about the village and fort.
From Narayangaon a road goes to a small village called Kodad and from Kodad after crossing a canal we reach at the base village called ‘Gadachi wadi’ a town with just 40-50 houses and around 150-200 population. On the eastern border of the village is the steep rock standing 2872ft from sea level is the Narayangad.
The fort hill is spreaded North-South. There is small temple of Godess Jagadamba at the base of this rocky hill. Temple seems to be recently built Keeping the temple on right we catch the small path which takes us to the rock-cut steps which are still in good condition and not slippery. In 15-20 minutes we reach on the top.








Entrance to the fort is on the western side at the middle of its length. As per old records, there was a doorway with the figures of Ganesha and two attendant tigers on its lintel. Small strip of fortified wall runs 15-20 ft towards the south from the entrance. On the right are two bastions 30-40 ft away from each other. The wall and bastions are in good condition rest of the fortification was completely dimanteled in 1820.Hill raises 10-20 ft on the northern and southern ends of the fort.



There are group of 5 reservoirs on the east face and two cisterns which supplied drinking water are on the south–east side. Both are approximately 70 meter from each other. There is a stone inscription in devnagari on one of the cistern wall. This cistern has small steps to reach the base during summer and for cleaning purpose.Turning to the north, one the way there are some ruins of buildings scattered everywhere. On the extreme northern end is the temple of Goddess Hastabai. Temple is not very old.

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

FORT KORLAI

Korlai Fort also known as Morro de Ciaul or Morro de Chaul in Portuguese times, lies on the south bank of Roha creek. It is a rocky ridge stretching north –west half across the river and lies opposite to Revdanda. Inside the ridge lies the village Korle at the base of the rocky hill, with Korle beach on the western side. It is surrounded by the sea to the west and north lay, to the east the river, and to the south the mainland.
Morro de Chaul was at unique location, protecting the mouth of the river. It was very important to have control over this fort as it could protect the fortified city of Chaul.

The crest of the ridge is flanked by walls, and the defenses are strengthened by an outwork on the rocks just above sea level, and by three cross walls and towers between the outwork on the sea and the main fortifications on the top of the hill.

Fort is almost 2800 feet long in north and 100 feet broad in east-west. It has outer fortified wall with loop holes. It has total eleven gates out of which seven are inner and four are outer.

On the north of rocky ridge is the water battery which is within the bullet range of the main channel. The name of this battery is Santa Cruz. From here the hill raises. This ridge is fortified with two lines along the length. This slope is divided into three enclosures with two bastions wall to wall. Top of the hill fort is surrounded by parapet with fortified bastions along the border. and a great strong tower called as the Castle of Resistance.
One the top is a rain water cistern with three openings each of around 1 sq.ft.













There are ruins of Church and magazine. Church with Chapel had an inner roof of palm leaf matting and an outer roof of thatch with some paintings on it. Along the border are seven major bastions.
In early Portuguese records, names of these seven bastions were given as Sam Thiago, Sam Francisco Xavier, Sam Pedro, Sam Ignacio, and Sam Philippe may still be read.During Maratha rule on the fort between (1739-1818) the names of these bastions were changed to Pusati, Ganesh, Pashchim (west) Devi, Chauburji, Ram, and Pan.

The few remaining guns seemed to smeared with red lead, a colubrina or calverine, half colubrine, half camel, iron sakre.
There are hindoo temples which are roofless. First is a temple of Ganesh, then of two goddesses Manjradevi and Vedikadevi. Idols of godess Majra and Vedika were taken to Korle Village.















There are three Portuguese stone carved inscriptions.
1. Over a doorway in the centre and highest part of the fort
2. Over the chief entrance,
3. Over an altar in the chapel, are worn and unreadable.
Out of which last two are worn out and unreadable.
The first inscription is surmounted by a cross, is a coat of arms with a shield, the Portuguese stars called as “quinas”in the centre, and seven castles round.
Inscriptions is as follows

ESTE CASTELO MANPO V. FAZER
OVIZORI. DA INDIA DO FELIPHE
MZSEDNOV BRODE 1646 ANOS 9
SENDOCAPITAODE CHAUL. FE
RNAO DE MIRANDA E RIQEAS EA
CABOV SENE MAIO DE 1680 SENDO
CAPITAO DE SAFRACACRIS TOVAO
DABEEV D AZEVKDO.
( English Translation : This castle was commanded to be built by the Viceroy of India D. Felippe Mascarenhas in November, 1646, Fernao Miranda Henriques being Captain of Chaul, and was finished in May 1680, Christorao d Abreu d' Azevedo being Captain of this fort.)











History:In 1521,Ahmadnagar King allowed to built a fort in Chaul. Along with the fort in Chaul, the Portuguese raised a bulwark on the flat lang on the foothills of Korle rock ridge.
On the condition of supplying 300 horses (which would be useful in a war against Adilkhan) from Arabia in reasonable rates Nizam Ul Mulk allowed Portuguese to built the fort in chaul in 1521. Along with the fort of Chaul Portuguese bult a small bulwark on the flat land at the foot of a small hill on the Korlai rock ridge.
Cambay fleet attacked on Korle but its garrison was strengthened from Chaul. This drove of Gujathi fleet with major loss. During this period Burhan Nizam (1508-1553) died. Taking advantage of both these incidents Portuguese asked for the cession of the fort Korle, which was refused by Ahmandnagar King. King sent his best engineers to strengthen this hill by strong fortification. Portuguese opposed raising small quarrel with Ahmadnagar troops, but later the mutual decision the fort remained unfortified.

Again in 1594 the new Nizam King (Burhan Nizam II) set a war against Portuguese. He built a' fort 'a wonder of strength and completeness' on the Korleridge. From this fort Nizam army did much injuries to Ravdanda wall which was again in fortified city.
Portuguese started reinforcing their army from Bassein and Salsette and on 4th September 1594 they destroyed the korle market under the command of Abranches, the captain of Chaul.. He landed on Korle shore and fought hard and chased musalmans to the outer gate. Gate was blocked by dead elephants. Portuguese entered the fort.
Enraged at the death of Antonio, a Franciscan father who had led them with a crucifix fastened to a lance, the Portuguese rushed forward and forced their way through the second gate. At last after fierce resistance musalman general Fateh Khan was taken into prison. ( Later Fateh Khan became the Christine and after his death he was buried with great pomp. Fateh Khan’s wife and a daughter were ransomed and became Christian.
His daughter was sent to Lisbon from Goa.
Initially, Portuguese destroyed the fort except Tower of resistance and the battery at the water’s edge, but later they strengthened the fortification. (Ref. from description of Chaul rock by Della Valla in 1623 as crowned musalman fort, strengthened by Portuguese).

Monday, March 29, 2010

KOLABA FORT

Alibag lies on the coast, nineteen miles south of Bombay, at the mouth of a tidal creek, locally known as the Sakhar creek,
In the fore- ground is the sea-fort of Kolaba, with its temples, ruined palaces, and trees; beyond is the long line of palms broken only by groups of still higher casuarinas, beneath which may be distinguished the houses of the European residents.
It is one of the fort built by Shivaji in the middle of 17th century, when he had started his naval operation in Konkan by winning panvel, southern Kalyan region. In 1662 Shivaji rebuilt and strengthened Kolaba and made the harbour one of his chief naval stations. The command of his naval fleet was under Darya Sarang and Maynak Bhandari.
To put a stop to the ravages by the Maratha navy, the Portuguese from Chaul nearby, sent their ambassador to visit Shivaji to refrain from molesting their coasts and shipping. Shivaji agreed on the terms of the supply of gunpowder and cannons. There was no interlude on the fort Kolaba until it came to Angrians.
In 1690 Kanhoji Angria was appointed second in command of Rajaram's fleet, and in 1698 succeeded to the command on the death of the admiral Sidoji Gujar. Kanhoji Angria soon showed himself a most daring and enterprising leader. As in the time of Shivaji, Kolaba continued the one of the principal base of the Maratha fleet. In 1713 Peshwa, Balaji Vishvanath gave, Kolaba and several other forts, to Angria.
In 1722 the Bombay governer of English factory in Mumbai placed a joint operation with the help from Portuguese in Chaul and Goa against Angrians. Colonel Mathew from Gujrat had joined the governor on the company’s request. This joint operation failed even though it was well prepared and planned.
Later on Kanhoji died in the year 1728 and the region was succeeded by his two sons Sakhoji and Sambhaji. Sambhaji Angria kept the eldest of his three half-brothers with him at Gheria in Ratnagiri, appointed the other two Yesaji and Manaji to the charge of Kolaba. Yesaji the elder brother had civil controls, while Manaji commanded the army and navy.
Before long Manaji quarrelled with his family, and, with the help of the Portuguese to whom he promised land near Revdanda, escaladed Kolaba and carried it sword in hand. He put out Yesaji's eyes and confined him first at Poynad and then at Alibag.
As soon as the Portuguese retired, Sambhaji attacked Kolaba, but, with the help of the Peshwa Bajirav, Manaji forced Sambhaji to raise the siege.
In 1737, as Manaji had failed to give them the districts he had promised, the Portuguese joined Sambhaji against him. Manaji sent to the Peshwa, who agreed to help him on condition of his paying a yearly sum of £700 (Rs. 7000), and presenting the Raja of Satara with European and Chinese articles worth about £300 (Rs. 3000).
With the Peshwa's help Manaji succeeded in repelling the Portuguese attack. Three years later, in 1740, Sambhaji, taking advantage of the absence of a large body of the Peshwa's troops in Hindustan, laid siege to Kolaba and cut off the garrison's supply of fresh water. Manaji applied to Balaji Bajirav the Peshwa's son, then on his first active service, who sent 500 men to support the garrison, and, under orders from Chimnaji Appa, repaired to Kolaba in person and applied for help to the Governor of Bombay.
In 1747, the Sidi of Janjira sent a strong force against Kolaba, but with the Peshwa's help the Musalmans were completely defeated between Thal and Navgaon (Nagaon) a few miles north of Alibag. Manaji died in 1759 and was succeeded by Raghoji the first Angria of that name, the eldest of Manaji's ten sons.
In 1776 Raghoji Angria seized the Sadashiv Bhau, who landed on the Kolaba after his defeat with Sindia’s. Imprisoned Sadashiv bhau was sent to Poona, where he was trampled to death by an elephant.
Raghoji died in 1793. Anandibai the mother of the infant Angria gathered few troops, and captured the Kolaba fort. The troop imprisoned Jaysing. His chief advisors were executed. After four months Jaysing escaped, and, collecting some followers, besieged Hirakot in Alibag.
Anandibai led an army against the Jaising. After a huge battle, she defeated jaising who faced heavy loss.
After Anandibai's death, Jaysing inarched on Alibag and took Hirakot. Meanwhile Peshwa had promised to help Manaji hence, Jaysing applied for aid to Baburav, Chief commander of Sindia. Baburav agreed to help but after reaching Alibag, he turned to treachery and took over the command of Hirakot.
About the fort:
The water citadel of Kolaba lies almost a km on a rock line in the Arabian from the mainland of Alibag, which lies on low rocky island, spreading 850 to 900 feet from north to south, and, at the broadest, about 350 feet from east to west. One can reach at the fort by 15 minutes walk during low tide hours. Else regular services of motor boats are the only option.
On the beginning of the north side is the Sarjekot, which is a defensive fortified outwork and said to have built to protect the main entrance of kolaba from the artillery of Hirakot on the mainlands of Alibag.
The fortification has with two gates, a main gate in the north-east and a small gate in the south, and seventeen bastions, four in the corners, five on the sea face, four on the land face, three on the north face, and one on the south face namely Nagar-khani, Ganesh, Madi, Topkhani, Surya, Hanumant afterwards known by the name of Hagrya, Bhavani, Pira, Golandaj, Darukhani, Eshvantdari, Nala, Ghanchakra, Fatya, Darya, Manohandra, and Babdev.
The whole of the outer fortification or stonework (masonry) is of large squared blocks of trap fitted without mortar. This is a must see technique used by architects at the time of Shivaji. The idea of building the wall without mortar is to let the water in, during the tides and again pass back in the sea avoiding the wear of stones.
Like the rest of the fortifications it is built of big blocks of trap, about three feet by two, put together without mortar.
On the north-west, is a raised platform, which was used for stabling horses and storing grass. The small building at the south end is called the powder-magazine.
To the south a line of big rough stones, forming a causeway, about five feet high thirteen and a half feet broad and ninety paces long lead to the tower named Manik Chavda. Then comes the outer defence of the main fort well built with the same great black stones.
At the north-east corner of the main fort is the chief gateway known as Maha Darvaza of double doorway with a pointed arch and a keep (Two towers adjacent to the Main entrance). The outer door-way has a peaked arch and which had a teak door armed with iron spikes. Inside of the outer door is a three-cornered space, with a wall across the inside in which is a flat gateway with side posts. On the Maha darwaja two sharabhas facing each other are sculpted, below which is Ganesh ans two elephants.
After entering the fort on the south is a rough figure of Gulbai or Mahishasurmardini, the buffaloe-slayer, with a buffalo lying in front. Gulbai is represented with one head and four hands. Her upper left hand holds a discus and her lower left grasps the buffaloe's tongue; her lower right smites the buffalo with a trident and her upper right twists its tail.
The north wall of the main fort has a central tower entered from the north by a sloping pavement. The west or sea face is about twenty feet high with a curtain wall of four feet more. In the west face besides at the corners are five towers.
Inside of the inner gateway, in the north wall, is a square room or talghar with four domes supported by round stone pillars. According to one account in front of this room were two store-houses, one for rice, the other for butter, oil, molasses, sugar, and wheat. On the right, close to the inner gate, is Padmavanti's shrine, a ruined tiled shed with a small figure of a woman.
The small tiled house on the left is the shrine of Bhavani and the house of an Agri, one of the two ministrants who are in charge of the fort temples. In Bhavani's shrine are a bust of Bhavani and images of Vetal and Ganpati.
To the south of the stables are the ruins of a house and granary. The buildings on the left are the ruins of two palaces. The first or more northerly is known as the Nani Saheb's.
It is said to be called after Lakshmibai, or Nani Saheb, the widow of the great Kanhoji Angria (1690-1731). Next comes the chief palace of the Angria's, roofless and ruined. To the east of the palace were store-houses and other outbuildings.
In the palace enclosure is a small step well. To the south of the palace, entered by a brick gate-way, is a cement lined stone reservoir about 115 feet by 105. In Angria's time only one potful a day of this water is said to have been allowed to each person. In a niche in the reservoir are images of heavenly damsels or apsaras.
Overlooking' the reservoir there is said to have been a small dwelling and near it five houses belonging to Angria's officers, the minister or divan, the head revenue officer or daftardar, the secretary or chitnis, the registrar or phadnis, and the treasurer or potnis.
On the right, nearly opposite the reservoir, in a walled enclosure, is the chief temple. It is known as the Ganpati Panchayatan, because it contains the five images of Ganpati, Shamb or Mahadev, Vishnu, Surya, and Devi. It was built by the elder Raghoji (1759-1798).
Next to Ganpati's temple is a temple of Mahadev and to the north a shrine of Maruti. To the south of the enclosure of Ganpati's temple, on the right are the ruins of a temple of Kanoba, and, on the left, was the jail.
Further south on either side, are ruined guard-rooms, and, beyond the guard-rooms, is the Yashvant Gate or Darya Darwaja with a peaked arch and side recesses. Outside is the shrine of Yashvandari, the guardian of the gate, a white stone marked with red. South of the fort wall, the open raised space, which is a ship dock, this dock was used most of the times for repairing works like water proofing of the base of ships etc.
In addition to the buildings mentioned above, there was the sadar or court where the chief held his office, a small palace built by Esoji Angria, and a building known as the karkunmandalivada for the use of court officers and clerks when they went on duty to the fort.
In the north-west corner of the wall, on the parapet, are a sentry-box and two old guns, which, during the stormy months (June-September), are fired as signals if a vessel is seen dangerously near shore.

Saturday, February 27, 2010

BANESHWAR TEMPLE

Gunjan maval is famous for many historical places, giant mountains and very strong citadels like Torna, Rajgad on giant mountains of sahyadri range.
A very famous holy place of Lord Shiva, Baneshwar Temple is in the same maval division.Gunjan maval got its name from Gunjavani river.There are many forts, shrines, old temples in this old division of maval. One of them is the famous Baneshwar.
This holy place is stands on the bank of Shivganga river and is 45km in the south of Pune city.From the main Mumbai- Banglore a small branch heads towards west, called as Nasarapur phata. This roads heads to Rajgad fort via Nasarapur village, which is just 10 mins drive from highway.
At the end of the village lies Baneshwar gateway on the right.
Small road through dense forest makes us realise, why this place is called Baneshwar.
This ancient temple was built in 1749 by Nanasaheb Peshwa. And total construction cost paid was 11,426 rupees, 8 aane and 6 paise (Rs 11,426 and 56 paise). [ Ref.: Peshawe kalin patrsar sangraha]

Main temple is surrounded by strong wall. The main entrance is in Sounth-East( Aagneya) side. After entering the temple premises, there are 2 holy water tanks called as kundas on right.
In first kundas which is on the northen most side, the continuous water stream flows from the Gomukha, a cow face. Water in this kuda was used for performing holy rituals of temple and drinking. There is small hole provided to this kunda which lets the water enter in the second kunda. Water from this kunda was used for washing and taking a bath.
a nandi mandap is on the south of the first kunda. Baneshwar temple is in front of Nandi temple. There are three parts of this temple Sopa (hallway), Sabhamandap and garbhagriha(Sanctum).
The hallway of this temple is of three semi compartment with square pediment and dome. There is lotus leaf sculpted pillar of the hallway. In the central compartment a big bell is mounted.
This is the Portuguese bell which is made of gun metal, the mixture of tin and brass. This bell is the symbol of victory of a maratha army over Portuguese army in Vasai. There is no doubt these pious Portuguese were active in propagating their faith. Chimajiappa, a younger brother of Bajirao Peshwa flew a new campaign of Vasai between 1737AD to 1739AD. This great worrior and commander defeated the Portuguese by capturing the entire region between Daman in the north to Vasai near Mumbai. Marathas captured many bells from the different Portuguese church during this campaign. The one at Baneshwar is the same.
Christian cross symbol and year 1683 carved on this bell is clearly visible.After hallway is the Mandapa(Sabhamandap) which has no pillar and whole pyramidal vault is rested on four walls of mandapas. Through Sabhamandap, we enter in the Garbhagriha, the sanctum. There is the Shankar-Parvati idol in the fron wall with Kartikeya on the lower left and Ganesh on the lower right corners.
In front of this idol is the main north faced shiva linga. Actually this is just lid with shape of linga.
Original group of five shiva linga is inside the hole under this lid. Continious water stream flows through this hole. These lingas can be seen by placing a leaf on the water face with litted camphor on it.
Most amezing thing in this temple is water circumambulatory system. No wonder if we call baneshwar, a water temple. Water is first stored in tank which lets the water enter in the first kunda through gomukha, when first kunda is totally filled, the water enters in the second kunda through small hole at the top. This water enters in a circumalator which flows arond the temple and continuously water flows through it.